During Classical Greek times, perfumed cloths were used by the wealthy. These were used to mask the smell of perspiration, either on the owner or on someone seated nearby. In the Roman Empire, women of rank carried silk or cotton handkerchiefs. Roman games were signalled to begin when a lady’s handkerchief was dropped; handkerchiefs were also waved by spectators at those games to show approval.

A handkerchief used during the Middle Ages was a sign of wealth. A knight-in-shining-armor would wear a lady’s handkerchief to publicly show he had her favour. During the Renaissance, the handkerchief was made from silk, cambric or linen. These “napkyns,” as they were called, were used by both men and women, and were often embroidered with fine silk and featured exquisite lace.

During the 16th century, the European handkerchief was also very showy; it had layers of lace or fringed edges and was meant to be shown off as a fashion statement rather than be something useful. During the 1700’s, the handkerchief was considered a necessity by the wealthy to have at the tragedies in the French theater. In the 19th century, ladies carried handkerchiefs in their hands instead of hiding them away in bags or purses. They were so common that everyone carried a “hankie” everywhere they went. During the Victorian era, this public practice made it possible for a young woman to make romantic signals across a room to a young man with her handkerchief, unbeknownst to the prying eyes of “Grand-mama” or the governess.